[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 7 points 3 months ago

This is the exact opposite of my experience. We've been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it's garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I'm pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don't exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn't have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it's been a waste of time and money.

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 63 points 8 months ago

At least the song is 🔥

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 3 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren't printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it's not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 4 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 11 points 10 months ago

You might be able to but you really shouldn't. At the best you wouldn't have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 4 points 11 months ago

Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I've not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it's been great.

16
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by Dangerhart@lemm.ee to c/gaming@beehaw.org

DM me for a steam key, its a duplicate from the recent humble bundle for me. First one gets it

edit: claimed, sorry everyone

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 11 months ago

Magnetic is really important for me, how is that case with drops? I imagine it's pretty stiff/hard?

7
submitted 11 months ago by Dangerhart@lemm.ee to c/googlepixel@lemmy.world

I can't quite seem to find a case I'm happy with. I usually get a plain clear all TPU case that is both pretty thin but good for drops. I don't care if it yellows and I don't really like the tough/OtterBox style bulky cases. I have the google case and my problems with it are the lack of camera bar coverage, I've already dinged mine, and how hard/not drop friendly the front half is. The back seems a little too soft, one of the corners is slightly torn from the previously mentioned drop, but I'd rather that than what the material of the front is. I picked up one of these from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/314678008376 but it doesn't close all the way, doesn't fit great in some spots and is also a little too hard, otherwise it would be great. At this point I'm leaning toward just using the google case and trying to find a skin to cover the camera. I'm also willing to pay a bit more if it hits everything I want. Anyone have good suggestions?

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago

Sorry I just realized the way I described everything was actually pretty confusing. After every print I run a clean macro that moves the nozzle up front and heats to 230 and sits there. After about 10 minutes I wipe it then have a clean complete macro to cool down and move it back to the center. Then I start a print and the homing etc is all done at a lower temp, I can't remember if it's static or nozzle temp -75c or something

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago

I've had under extrusion, caused by too high speed or pressure advance settings look like this, does it show up if you slow down?

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago

One I don't see people mentioning is the walking dead saints and sinners. I haven't played part 2 yet but I put a lot of hours into the first one

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 3 points 1 year ago

That last point is a big one, for me putting 30 hours into a single VR game feels like putting 100 into a pancake.

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 1 year ago

I had similar problems on my sidewinder x1 that had two lead screws, honestly I would recommend skipping the v rollers completely and go straight to something with linear rails or modding some on

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Dangerhart

joined 1 year ago