[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 2 points 6 days ago

Awesome, glad it was a relatively simple mod! This chassis seems like the perfect suppressed FRT platform. Gonna be keeping an eye out for a full-size now.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 1 points 6 days ago

Sounds good, .38spl is very pleasant to shoot and cheaper anyway haha.

I'd be interested in the reinforcement ideas. The hammer looks like it could be cast out of a metal like Zamak. The breech might be too complex but I bet there is a way to cast it too, maybe in parts, then cleaned up using jigs like 80% frames/lowers. SCS inserts for contact surfaces could be an option too.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 1 points 6 days ago

If you can recrimp properly then it might work. Seems like a lot of work when a glued spacer may be simpler and more repeatable. Reloading like that can be sketchy if you're not familiar with the reloading process.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 2 points 1 week ago

Love the build! Is there enough space behind the slide to accommodate weighted backplates for suppressed FRT use?

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 3 points 1 week ago

Take a Q-tip and see if the residue wipes away, it's likely just the powder residue from the blank. Case cracking probably comes from the chamber being slightly oversized for the blank. A note for the slugs, since the blanks are crimped at the tip and the air gun slug rests on it, the blank opens up and damages the bottom skirt of the slug when its fired because there is no space, which would mess with your accuracy. You might be able to increase accuracy of the slug by gluing a printed spacer or a BB between the slug and blank.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 3 points 1 week ago

The Stack-A-Gat19 by SCSM would be a pretty good start. A mostly milled Harlot seems doable since the side plates are printed flat. Honestly, a lathe may be a better option since it opens up making barrels, launcher hulls, anything cylindrical etc.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 1 points 1 week ago

Appreciate the update. I'm assuming that .357 mag isn't recommended if the hot .327 are causing trouble?

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 2 points 1 week ago

The man himself! Thank you for the info, I'll give the Torx a try and I'm glad the headspace is intentional. How are the other caliber Modelos coming along? I'm looking forward to building the .38 spl version after the 43R.

[-] Gajoso@forum.guncadindex.com 2 points 1 week ago

Glad there's interest in the P10! I compared a P10 mag to a Glock mag and the P10 mag is smaller front-back but just about the same widthwise, so the weakest and thinnest walls are there. You might be able to use a printed follower + Glock springs since the angle is very similar and the Glock mag walls are thicker so internal area is smaller. The feed taper where it goes from double to single stack for the mag is pretty long so not a lot of material there either. Worst case, you could do a single stack P10 mag with super thick side walls and maybe a G43 mag spring lol.

7

Currently working on the Modelo Polylactico and was wondering if anyone else had a good solution for sanding the longer Intermediate shells. I had no issues using a 6mm drill bit + painters tape shim as a mandrel for the Beginner 209 shells, but the Intermediates don't have enough surface area or depth due to their smaller holes to stay on the other smaller drill bits I've tried. I suppose I could force/tap an M2 or M3 screw into the top powder hole but would widening the hole cause issues if its sealed well?

I also noticed that the shell models had inconsistent rim thicknesses in Orca.

  • Headspace gauge/jig rim: 1.8mm thick
  • Intermediate .355 rim: 1.6mm thick
  • Beginner 209 slug and shotshell rims: 1.2mm thick

Obviously there would be an issue if the 1.2mm rims were used to headspace, preventing the thicker shells from loading, but wouldn't too much headspace also cause trouble like light strikes and case bulge/FTEs?

Gajoso

joined 1 week ago