Check and make sure that your z screw is not sticking or binding. Also, make sure that the hotend is tightened and there are no gaps where filament can ooze from.
oh this is so weird. so very weird. look at this picture in particular. Look at the layers weaving up and down well before you get to the big ridges, when they still are... semi-normal. It's not corner curl, it's happening where the bottom is actually still flat. What the actual fuck.
Looking at that corner.. it definitely just looks like corner curl. It can be incredibly hard to see when the printer is going, but unless your slicing software was telling the printer to raise the Y axis in the exact same pattern every layer, nothing can really cause that besides the corner of the print coming off the bed. You can fix that part by playing with the bed temp settings. Too low and the first lines won't stick, or the print might pop off the bed of the nozzle runs through some hairy parts. Too high and you get prints like yours.
If you look at the sliced tool paths, what is it doing when it puts those Xs into your test print?
Sliced tool paths? What do you mean by that. I'm using Prusaslicer if that helps.
The area where it's layer shifting in the center of the boat, if you have some way of measuring that, divide by layer height to determine what layer that happened between. If the slicer is doing anything fucky with the tool paths than that may be a contributing factor.
Edit: Sorry, just realized that puppetx was talking about the box, not the boat
I wrote a very long and detailed comment about your settings last night but it seems it didn't save.
Long story short, your hot end has a maximum amount of filament it can melt and squeeze through your nozzle. Anything more than that and you'll start to have issues.
Let's say for example's sake that your hot end cannot handle more than the default 0.4 nozzle 0.15 layer height @ 60mm/s. You can increase your nozzle size to 0.6, but you'll need to decrease your print speed to keep the hot end happy. Even moreso of you increase layer height as well.
So in your post you went from 0.2 layer @ 40mm/s, to 0.25 layer @ 60mm/s. I don't know what printer/ hot end you've got, but that's kind of a lot of filament. You can increase print temp to compensate, which I see you've done, but remember that your filament has an optimal print temperature, and if you exceed that too far you'll run in to issues there as well.
Have you already tried printing calibration towers (temp, speed, retract, flow etc)? If not, definitely look up a video or two on how to get them set up. They are much more effective for finding proper print settings than test prints like the benchy. Use towers to find the right settings, use your benchy to test the settings to make sure everything looks good.
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
