u/Thefleasknees86 · 2025-06-30 12:50:01 UTC · score 37

I love this response...

Yes, you are expected to fully understand the equipment and software you are using to manufacture firearm parts that employ controlled explosions near your hand and face.

This is like trying out for the varsity basketball team and saying "I've been playing basketball for 2 days, do you expect me to know how to throw a pick and roll?"

Mf...no one asked you to try out for team.

You want to learn, gain experience, and not look like an entitled idiot who doesn't have a clue what they are doing?

Then learn to crawl before you walk.

Instead, you are tumbling down a hill with an attitude.

u/JackCooper_7274 · 2025-06-30 21:50:19 UTC · score 1

You are using a machine you don't fully understand and have only had for 2 days to make things that are supposed to safely contain small explosions in your hands?

Am I understanding this correctly?

u/Radio_Global · 2025-06-30 13:36:30 UTC · score 5

I would highly suggest practicing with some non 2a prints before you dig into those. Find some silly modely(my favorite is a gnome flipping the bird) and play with the settings and figure out what supports, speeds, temps, and other variables work the best for you. I would also suggest using orca slicer if you aren't using that. The slicer comes with an entire printer/print calibration guide and prints that will pre-load in settings for you to get all dialed in with and there's a guide online to help you through the process. Above all, patience is key. You will have failures, try to find something to learn from them and keep printing.

u/Run_n_Gun98 · 2025-06-30 12:30:22 UTC · score 10

I had to learn everything I know myself, but just a friendly tip, if your new to 3D printing in general, don't start right away with 3D2A stuff. Try mechanical stuff just still you really know your printer/settings and have em tuned.

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 06:43:09 UTC · score 6

Always dry new rolls man they don’t come dry all the time only filament i haven’t needed to dry was the 250g freebies I got with my baby labs p1s. But yeah mess with your settings to man like support z distance (depends on what your slicer has it labeled as,as well)

u/Thefleasknees86 · 2025-06-30 12:54:40 UTC · score 2

The person that said print it standing up means well, but they are wrong in this instance. Follow the readme for the project and if there isn't one, find a can that has better supporting documents.

I don't see any indication that your filament is wet. A good test for pla is attempt to bend the filament between your fingers, if it snaps, it is wet.

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:09:40 UTC · score 5

Coulda swore k-cad was printed vertical but I guess I was wrong on it being a k cad and the orientation.

u/STLprintz · 2025-06-30 13:19:16 UTC · score 3

Unfortunately all printers are different regarding calibration so the settings i give you could potentially give the opposite affect. Its comes down to layer height, speed, making sure your E-steps are calibrated and a few others im potentially not thinking of at the moment. If you look up e-Steps on YT you will find plenty.

I recently got a new printer and it took about two weeks to get it fully calibrated to print 2A items. Once you get a print profile set then thats all you will really need. And remember calibration is also for your filaments too, not all filaments will print the same, such as switching from Pla to Nylons