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submitted 2 months ago by noah@fosscad.io to c/ark@fosscad.io

Originally posted by u/Gillygilber at 2025-06-30T05:41:04Z

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This is my first post as I just got my printer but does anyone have any recommendations for this print? There’s a lot of filler that isn’t stuck to the rest of the print. Everything else is almost perfect except the bottom. I’m using a flash forge 5M with a 220C extruder temp and a 2mm layer I believe.


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[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 05:48:53 UTC · score 2

Print it straight up and down not laying flat like that but is your filament dried? Like did you dry it before printing. That’s a big one. But I don’t know much about the flash forges since I went from a ender 3 pro to a Bambu labs p1s. But I’d start with that. Print straight up and dry your filament

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/Gillygilber · 2025-06-30 06:40:48 UTC · score 1

Okay I’ll try that everything I’ve read says drying help but it’s a new roll I opened today. This is also my first bigger print I’ve been printing plugs for Glock grips and it’s doing great. But I’ll definitely try drying jt

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 06:43:09 UTC · score 6

Always dry new rolls man they don’t come dry all the time only filament i haven’t needed to dry was the 250g freebies I got with my baby labs p1s. But yeah mess with your settings to man like support z distance (depends on what your slicer has it labeled as,as well)

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/Gillygilber · 2025-06-30 06:46:48 UTC · score 1

Will do thank you man. Should I just order a dryer or is there a DIY way to dry them out?

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:03:53 UTC · score 1

I ordered a cheap dryer but I heard people dry there’s in ovens but I wouldn’t trust myself to do that haha

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/mashedleo · 2025-06-30 10:21:59 UTC · score 1

Well not always lol. Don't dry a new roll of siraya tech ppa-cf core. It will anneal it and make it completely unprintable. Very expensive lesson.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:03:18 UTC · score 1

No shit is that the same for all cf? Or just pacific to that one?

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/mashedleo · 2025-06-30 19:23:01 UTC · score 1

As far as I know so far, just this one. I dry all my cf or gf nylon straight out of the package. However I ruined an entire roll of siraya tech ppa-cf core and I think it was like $80. Here I thought I was being thorough

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 19:24:13 UTC · score 1

Dang! That is an expensive lesson to learn! I’ve been reading on hoffmantactical that’s good one to use for his lowers

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/mashedleo · 2025-06-30 19:37:16 UTC · score 1

It's supposed to be a very tough filament. Mytechfun has a review as it being one of the strongest. I dired it along with a roll of Fiberon pps-cf. I'm hoping the same isn't true of the Fiberon. If so it will be almost $200 of wasted filament. I contacted siraya tech directly and they confirmed I ruined it. There should be a big warning on the bag imo.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 20:15:19 UTC · score 1

Yeah for real! They should have it right on the box “DO NOT DRY CAN/WILL RUIN” that’s crazy I’m surprised they didn’t reimburse you since it doesn’t say it

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/Thefleasknees86 · 2025-06-30 12:54:40 UTC · score 2

The person that said print it standing up means well, but they are wrong in this instance. Follow the readme for the project and if there isn't one, find a can that has better supporting documents.

I don't see any indication that your filament is wet. A good test for pla is attempt to bend the filament between your fingers, if it snaps, it is wet.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/Thefleasknees86 · 2025-06-30 12:52:28 UTC · score 6

Don't give general printing advice in this subreddit. This print is specifically not meant to be printed vertically.

I don't expect you to know that because it a niche subreddit, but realize that you are guessing in a place where people are manufacturing firearms. Not a good idea

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:09:40 UTC · score 5

Coulda swore k-cad was printed vertical but I guess I was wrong on it being a k cad and the orientation.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/Thefleasknees86 · 2025-06-30 13:12:34 UTC · score 5

Hold on, I might be the pot calling the kettle black. If you have a link to the kcan documentation, I'll brush up on it.

Either way, OP needs to take a huge step back and learn the ropes

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:17:59 UTC · score 6

On the website it says vertically is strong enough for .22 which I believe op said in the comments but horizontally is better for all subsonic ammo. And some supersonic. So I guess it all depends on which one he was printing bc he said he wanted a 9mm as well lol. But I agree it took me a bit to get a decent 3d2a print and it’s not something I’d jump into and trust testing out 2 days into printing and not knowing what supports are lol. So we’re both right and wrong if that makes sense haha.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago
[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/thehumanvirusttv · 2025-06-30 13:20:06 UTC · score 3

Really appreciate the kind comment though man. Love the learning comments that don’t try to like push people away from the hobby because I has seen some haha.

[-] noah@fosscad.io 1 points 2 months ago

u/JackCooper_7274 · 2025-06-30 21:51:16 UTC · score 2

The good ending

this post was submitted on 12 Oct 2025
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Re-upload of r/fosscad from 2015 - June 2025.

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