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Are you sure the problem is bed leveling? Oftentimes, the edges (and especially corners) coming up on large prints is warping due to thermal problems like incorrect bed temp or cool breezes.
Yes I am absolutely sure. I can see it while leveling the bed (using a feeler gauge). If I have the correct distance between nozzle and bed on the edges the nozzle scratches in the middle. And if perfect in the middle the edges are to far away. When I start a test print I can even see the filament not being squished enough to the bed on the sides while perfect in the middle. Warping only occurs to me when printing PETG and even then only slightly and on longer prints.
Have you considered shimming your bed? Keep in mind that also X/Y rods (frame in your case) might be a reason for that. Flipping (rotating) rods might get you closer to a solution. Inspect each axis and plate individually (with light behind the ruller for example). Not the answer that you were looking for, but Id always try to fix the hardware first. BL touch is doing nothing, but only correcting hardware issues. Not needed if you fix them 😜 It will be easier with ABL on better tuned printer. Also you might find that you dont need one (hopefully)
That is a really good tip, but I already disassembled the build plate and checked if it’s flat and compared with when it’s built in. Turns out it’s not perfectly flat… I too am a fan of fixing the hardware first, but in this case it might be cheaper (and easier) to install a BLTouch (or a mesh leveling probe in general). Also I won’t have this issue again in the future with a BLTouch, as I can correct a potential future bending of the plate without much work.
Some additional information:
I have a standard Voxelab Aquila with N32 Board. Upgraded already to DirectDrive and use it with a raspberry running Octoprint.
I own an Ender and installed alternative firmware (mriscoc professional firmware) which gives me a feature to probe the bed on multiple points and store this mesh in memory.
Now the firmware 'knows' about all the holes and hills on the bed and compensates for it.
You want to look for terms like bed mesh leveling, when you've got a probe attached, this technique can really help.
And don't forget to check if you have to tell your printer to use the saved mesh. I had to add a line to my start g-code. (ender 3 s1; M420 S1) There are also g-codes that can deactivate it again.
Thanks! So you don’t need a probe for your firmware? Currently I have none attached, but I wouldn’t mind the work of attaching one. But if there’s a way to do mesh leveling without probe that would also be nice.
Do you use it with Octoprint or similar?
I'm using a bl-touch. So the firmware will need to know the delta between the tip of the probe and your extruder (the z-offset).
I doubt creating a mesh without a probe is possible. At the moment I use a mesh with 9*9 points. This gets saved to eeprom and (see the other comment) loaded at startup using a g-code. I let it do a three-point probe after hearing the bed, so the software knows if it needs to tilt the mesh.
I do use octoprint, but these capabilities are all embedded in the software by mriscoc.
Ah okay, thanks for your information. Will look up on custom firmwares for my printer. Hopefully there is something stable :)
Recently switched from Marlin to Klipper. It looks like there is a sample configuration for your N32 board. Maybe a good custom firmware for your printer..
To flatten the learning curve, I've installed the Mainsailos image on a raspberry pi 4 and followed a lot of documentation / YT to get things up and running. The results are great, still got to get input shaping and the resonance measurements, but quite a difference!
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this post was submitted on 01 Aug 2023
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