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submitted 3 days ago by Rat_in_a_hat@lemmy.ca to c/pcgaming@lemmy.ca
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[-] napoleonsdumbcousin@feddit.org 207 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

Just a quick reminder that discs that you burn yourself at home do degrade pretty quickly, much faster than pressed discs. I personally have had burned discs that failed after approx. 6 years. It can happen even faster if you use low-quality discs. Even pressed discs can fail after 20 years if you are unlucky.

Using 2 big HDDs (2 for redundancy) full of your installers might be safer in the long run and also easier to manage and backup.

https://digital-archivist.com/how-long-do-dvds-last-and-cds

[-] FishFace@piefed.social 152 points 3 days ago

That's why I print out all my downloaded games

[-] NoForwadSlashS@piefed.social 65 points 2 days ago

I hope you also laminate them for longevity.

[-] Aceofspades@lemmy.ca 26 points 2 days ago

I laminate my punch cards for longevity. Wouldn't want them breaking down.

[-] brown567@sh.itjust.works 12 points 2 days ago

I prefer to cut archival cards from 0.7mm 316 stainless steel sheet 👍

[-] Janx@piefed.social 8 points 2 days ago

Sure, but what if there's a fire!? My favorite game is Ocarina of Time. I don't want to risk losing it, so I memorized the binary digits that comprise the code. Can't be too careful!

[-] Xey@sh.itjust.works 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Hope you keep your brain safe. Even then illness can easily rob you of those memories.

[-] ChexMax@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago

Fully agree. This is why I've made multiple children. Then I train them on the binary digits the way other parents teach shapes, numbers, and the ABCs. Can't be too careful, it's best to have multiple backups

[-] TachyonTele_Esq@piefed.social 2 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

The trick is to name your children after the save file

[-] FishFace@piefed.social 3 points 2 days ago
[-] Zorque@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

I eat those to gain their power.

[-] Blackmist@feddit.uk 3 points 1 day ago

Typing them back in after the apocalypse will take a while, but you'll be able to impress all the other wasteland mutants with a working copy of Half Life Alyx.

[-] BlackVenom@lemmy.world 14 points 2 days ago

You should really move to microfilm. It saves so much space!

[-] FishFace@piefed.social 17 points 2 days ago

It just doesn't smell the same

[-] GreyEyedGhost@piefed.ca 7 points 2 days ago

Print them on clay tablets. Those will stand the test of time, especially with the right level of error correction. (Sorry for the ad cancer - I didn't want to promote a specific brand or spend forever finding a good review site.)

[-] thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works 3 points 2 days ago

Can confirm, clay tablets can last thousands of years to archive your ~~grievances~~ data.

https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/complaint-tablet-to-ea-nasir

[-] FishFace@piefed.social 1 points 2 days ago

Unfortunately I'm allergic to clay

[-] Blackmist@feddit.uk 4 points 1 day ago

Note: Don't use SSDs for this either. They can easily corrupt and lose information if not powered on for as little as a year, in some cases.

[-] MangoPenguin@piefed.social 3 points 1 day ago

Yeah a HDD with another for periodic backups would be a lot more reliable.

[-] Onyxonblack@piefed.social 27 points 3 days ago

Use M-Disc media. It's said to last 1000 years. It's expensive and very slow to rip at the suggested 4x speed.

I've been very satisfied with them, and you just need a regular Blu-Ray drive.

[-] nuko147@lemmy.world 6 points 2 days ago

Cheapest solution is an HDD + one more for backups. M-Discs for 15-17€ per 100GB are for the games you wanna take to your grave.

[-] Onyxonblack@piefed.social 4 points 2 days ago

I mean they are games that i no longer have to worry about data corruption or loss. Like ever. And i can Will these to family & friends. The cost is easily worth that!

[-] Buddahriffic@lemmy.world 6 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Yeah, normal burners are more like printers, where the write laser activates or deactivates a pigment which then either reflects or absorbs the read laser to represent 0/1. But that pigment can degrade over time, turning 1s into 0s.

M-discs are instead etched and iirc use constructive and destructive interference so the reader (which is the same reader as normal discs, just the writer needs to specifically support M-disc) reads the 0/1. It will also degrade over time, but since it's a thicker layer of difference, it will last significantly longer than a thin layer of pigment. And I bet that special m-disc specific readers could be made to read it again after it degrades to the point where the interference technique stops working, since an image could still show where the high and low points are, even if the waves don't align perfectly anymore.

In practice, I've found that the drive was way easier to find than the media for m-disc. Like most optical disc writers these days seem to support it but the discs are expensive af compared to non m-disc.

Though when I was going through my old burnt CDs and DVDs, I was surprised at how well they were holding up. I was expecting at least some read errors by now but everything has been fine so far.

Well, other than the data quality lol. Not like the readability of the file but stuff that took days to download back then would download today in seconds and a good monitor I got well after my early files was only 720p for its resolution. The data I prized as a youth is kinda sad today.

[-] wylinka@szmer.info 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Verbatim Datalife HTL BD-R discs are supposedly made in a similar technology (some folk on r/datahoarder think they're exactly the same but idk). At the very least they won't have the same problem as DVDs (no organic dye) and they actually work out cheaper than half decent HDDs. I can get 25GBx50 cake for £30. I've only started burning them a year or two ago so time will tell if I lose my data :x.

[-] protogen420 4 points 2 days ago

blu ray in this economy?

[-] kilgore_trout@feddit.it 1 points 2 days ago

You need an M-DISC BluRay drive.

[-] mesamunefire@piefed.social 3 points 2 days ago

Are tape drives still a thing?

[-] Eat_Your_Paisley@lemmy.world 8 points 2 days ago
[-] mesamunefire@piefed.social 3 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

If I were more serous I would probably get a couple of those. I remember it being part of our procedures at a gov office.

[-] testaccount789@sh.itjust.works 2 points 2 days ago

What about Verbatim AZO? I've heard good stuff about those, and they're not expensive.

Also, as far as CDs go, I've found that an old degraded player which doesn't read burned discs anymore but plays pressed discs will still play burned AZO discs just fine.

[-] SkaveRat@discuss.tchncs.de 16 points 2 days ago

And reminder that solid state drives (including thumb drives) can lose data after a couple years if they are not plugged in from time to time

[-] ProdigalFrog@slrpnk.net 5 points 2 days ago

From what I recall, only self-burnt CD's and DVD's degrade quickly, while self-burnt blu-rays last significantly longer, even if not m-discs.

[-] napoleonsdumbcousin@feddit.org 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

Apparently blu-rays are even worse than other discs. This is from the abstract of an accelerated ageing study (sadly I don't have access to the whole paper):

Overall, the stability of the Blu-ray formats was poor with many discs significantly degraded after only 21 days of accelerated ageing. In addition to large increases in error rates, many discs showed easily identifiable visible degradation in several different forms. In a comparison with other optical disc formats examined previously, Blu-ray stability ranked very low.

https://www.degruyterbrill.com/de/document/doi/10.1515/res-2017-0016/html

[-] michaelalf@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago

Yep! Quote from digitalfaq

The BD-R write-once type is based on a completely new concept for the recording layer utilizing a two-layer structure composed of silicon (Si) and copper alloy (Cu) inorganic materials. When heated by the recording laser beam, these melt and the Si and Cu alloy become a composite forming recording marks. Because the material is inorganic, it is not affected by light, thus realizing a disc with outstandingly high reliability in terms of archivability.

And another quote from the same source

Write-once recordable DVD-R/DVD+R media (as well as CD-R media) all uses synthetic organic based dyes -- usually azoic dyes (metallized azo chelates or azo metal chelate). Some of them are based on other synthetic organics, such as cyanine, dipyrrometheme or oxonol.

[-] napoleonsdumbcousin@feddit.org 3 points 2 days ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

Your source is just a forum quoting manufacturer marketing texts.

In an accelerated ageing study blu-ray performed worse than other discs:

Overall, the stability of the Blu-ray formats was poor with many discs significantly degraded after only 21 days of accelerated ageing. In addition to large increases in error rates, many discs showed easily identifiable visible degradation in several different forms. In a comparison with other optical disc formats examined previously, Blu-ray stability ranked very low.

https://www.degruyterbrill.com/de/document/doi/10.1515/res-2017-0016/html

[-] HerbGrower@slrpnk.net 1 points 2 days ago

Plus you can store more games on each one. Don't they cost quite a bit per disc though?

[-] michaelalf@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

You can get a 50 pack of Verbatim's standard BD-R for ~$40 AUD, or their premium Datalifeplus discs for ~$100 AUD. I've used both of these discs, and I've run burn quality tests and they're both great. This is just talking about single layer discs, so 25GB per disc. 50GB discs are reasonably priced, 100GB and 128GB start getting a bit rich.

[-] HerbGrower@slrpnk.net 2 points 2 days ago

Oh yeah, its the very long life ones I was thinking of that cost a lot. If there are more regular ones at lower prices with still a moderate lifespan then that probably makes more sense.

[-] testaccount789@sh.itjust.works 10 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

It can happen even faster if you use low-quality discs.

Yep. I got some no-name DVDs at Kaufland as they were just EUR 1 for a 10-pack. They started having read issues after just 4 years.
Also, they easily peel apart with just fingers and no effort.

Edit:
Packaging: No-name DVD-R packaging. EAN: 4002903012032
Media ID: MBI 01RG40

[-] napoleonsdumbcousin@feddit.org 6 points 2 days ago

The worst case I experienced was a disc that disintegrated after a couple years. It got an actual extra hole in it, in a way that looked like somebody spilled acid on it and the acid burned right through the disc. In reality it just lay in my drawer.

[-] locahosr443@lemmy.world 6 points 2 days ago

In your acid draw?

[-] ruuster13@lemmy.zip 8 points 2 days ago
[-] cdf12345@lemmy.zip 7 points 2 days ago

Big Disc Energy

[-] JcbAzPx@lemmy.world 4 points 2 days ago

Try M-Disc, it's supposed to be as good as microfilm for archival.

[-] rozodru@piefed.world 5 points 2 days ago

yup. God knows how many Dreamcast games I've had to toss and reburn over the years.

this post was submitted on 15 Jul 2026
1655 points (100.0% liked)

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