I've been enjoying it a lot, but it's clearly an unfinished product at the moment.

To get into a little more detail, there's not a whole lot of features at the moment, but that's pretty par for the course. The launch version of VI seems similarly sparse in this regard, but its updates and expansions did a good job fleshing it out. What's there at the moment is mostly just a barebones collection of core gameplay systems, but I already think they're deeper and more engaging than in previous iterations.
Grouping units up for rapid deployment under a commander? Love it. Navigable rivers? Sign me the fuck up. Making the game's outcome feel like less of a foregone conclusion by half-time by soft-resetting at the start of new eras? Sorely needed. Love how they've re-worked independent powers (formerly city-states and barbarian encampments). Content is gonna come later.
It's a shame that the interface is total dog shit. People are complaining that it got dumbed down for parity with consoles, but if it's as bad on those as it was using a controller on PC (at my gf's place, so I was playing with my deck) then this is a sloppy execution that doesn't work well for anyone.