[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago
[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

  • You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
  • Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
  • Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
  • Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)
[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

18

I received this copper TS10 a few days ago and I finally got some time to do that mod that I also do when I receive a TS10.

When shipped, the aux leds (regardless of colour) are always too bright and drain the battery too fast for my liking.

For the orange aux, I added a 510Ω resistor, which dims it down to a comfortable brightness IMO. I don't have the numbers right now but the battery will also last much longer in high mode. Here are some pictures to show the difference.

High mode: left - no resistor added, right - 510Ω resistor added

Low mode: left - no resistor added, right - 510Ω resistor added

High mode after modding: 510Ω resistors added to both lights, much better

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

I am in! Thanks

3
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin@lemmy.world to c/flashlight@lemmy.world

I printed a new spacer for my FW1Aspheric to project the internals onto the wall lol.

Video

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won't be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

9
FW1Aspheric (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin@lemmy.world to c/flashlight@lemmy.world

It took me a while but I finally completed this mod, which started out as a FW1A Pro. This is what I did:

  • FET+7+1 driver upgraded to T1616 with aux support
  • Orange, green and purple aux
  • Yinding 5050 3000k emitter (warm and rosy, CRI > 70)
  • 3D printed spacer (white PETG)
  • Aspheric lens

I am getting around 76000cd at turn on, which is very similar to what the Bean Master got with a CULPM1 and a smooth reflector. But remember this Yinding is 3000k and rosy with a duv of -0.0075, and I think this makes it very impressive.

The main reason why I used an aspheric lens is because I needed aux, and suitable TIRs are just not throwy enough. I would also like to try to put those tiny RGB aux leds between the emitter and a reflector in the future. Enjoy the photos (sorry that most of them are in the wrong orientation, I uploaded them with my phone and I don't think they let me set the orientation)

The driver

All wired up

Orange, green, purple aux

Moonlight

With spacer

With aspheric

FW1-Aspheric vs KR1 SFT40 from 5 meters away

Looking into the lens

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.

I just need to have aux though, so I won't be using a reflector.

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I haven't seen one of those, does it look like the original FET+7+1 driver otherwise, do you have a photo you can show us?

When I ordered my FW1A Pros, I asked the guy on the aliexpress store to show me a picture of the driver before I placed the order, in case they are still shipping FET+1 drivers.

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 4 points 1 year ago

From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Looks good, I found that pink gives a little bit of fluorescence vibe like UV when you shine it on colourful objects.

And it looks like everybody's photos are in the wrong orientation. About half the photos in my last post (my first Lemmy post) were anyway.

[-] zumlin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

@TacGriz I saw that you were looking for a throwy TIR for your FW1A, how about an aspheric lens? My mod is in progress but I think it looks quite promising. From preliminary testing, the beam is nice and round with the round-die emitter. But the emitter is magnified so clearly such that the uneveness in the phosphor can be seen on a white wall. Though it won't be seen when used as a thrower in real life.

24
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin@lemmy.world to c/flashlight@lemmy.world

Hey all is my first post here and it looks like the main photo and a couple other photos below are not in the correct orientation.

I just got some new parts in to build a couple of throwy FW1A with aux (still waiting for the aux boards from OshPark). I got several different aspheric lenses, TIR optics that have been recommended in the past and the round-die Yinding 5050 emitter in 3000k (See the Opple 3 data below).

Still got some work to do as I need to work out which aspheric to use and the correct focal length which gives the most throw. After that I need to design a 3D printed spacer for the aspheric to sit on.

Edit: I like this emitter already, throwy (small emitting surface), warm (3000k), rosy (duv -0.0025!), and CRI not that bad! It is supposed to take up to around 8A of current I think.

view more: next ›

zumlin

joined 1 year ago