Tested a print of a muzzle device after calibrating some PLA Pro. The print came out looking great. However, the 1/2x28 threads in the ID are very loose, so much that with minimal force, you can pull straight past them.

So, I've seen a few different ways to fix this, but I wanted to see what the community agrees to as the "best" practice to adhere to.

Do I adjust for shrinkage, add in additional tolerance in the modeled threads, or do something else entirely?

Bambu P1S

0.4mm Nozzle

0.16mm Layer Height

Overture PLA Pro

I've seen the DB with a slip trip for the SS, but that uses M11/9 uppers. Are there any options for M10 uppers with an SS?

I've spent the last few days trying to get PETG to print on the P1S.

PLA and PLA Pro printed great with no change to settings and just using the default 0.4 nozzle 0.16mm optimized presets in Orca. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/lx7KzRA

PETG, on the other hand, has been a pain in the ass. The preset for PolyLite PETG failed on my first print miserably, so I aborted after the first few layers. I then attempted a flow rate test as it was under extruding, that test was a failure, and continued to fail until I increased the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.197. At this point, I adjusted it per pass 1 and 2 but was still having issues. I printed a temp tower and decided on a 255C first layer with 250C additional layers. Still no dice, so I looked for suggestions on YouTube. Found a guy swearing by increasing the temp to 279C on the P1S. I tried that, went through all filament calibration tests from flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, max flowrate, and VFA. Tests were looking good, so I tried the original failed print once again, and it turned out pretty good other than the underside of the arch. I used Tree (Auto), but that evidently wasn't good enough. The print is functional, and as everything looked good and my next parts didn't have overhangs, I decided to give them a go. These were complete fails and underextruding all around. I imagine the increased temp along with the pauses for movement on this print may have contributed to burning the filament. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/2nOJ7hb

In short, im at my wits end with PETG on this printer, and it's apparently a common issue. I dried for 6 hours at 65C, then kept the filament in a Sunlu S2 at 55C while printing. 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle, 0.16mm Optimal Preset with walls set to "3" and printing order set to "inner/outer/inner", using the stock Textured PEI build plate, PolyLite Grey PETG, P1S on firmware V01.08.00.00, and Orca on v2.3.1.

If anyone can share their PETG settings, im all ears, thanks.

For those using a P1S, what are the pros/cons of various firmware versions? I've seen mentioned that some versions locked down more control over the printer, but I haven't seen mentioned what exactly it changed or what versions did so. I plan to just use the printer in LAN mode, so are there any benefits to updating the firmware, or should I just leave it as it shipped?

I know the FMDA and several others that use P80 parts are Gen 3, but are there any frames for Gen 4? Overall, what are the best options currently?

Just pulled the trigger on a P1S and got quite a few filaments to test. What's some other good projects I should start with?

Looking to finally make the jump from my old Ender 3 to a better printer, I've upgraded the Ender quite a lot but have run into multiple problems over the years with custom firmwares. During my last move, I snapped the SD card slot off the main board and have had issues getting the new one back up and running. With all of that said I'm ready to just buy once, cry once, and get back to printing.

The options I'm looking at are either the X1C or the P1S. I wanted to get opinions here, as from what I've found so far, the P1S seems to have the same print speed/quality, just minus the AI, and upgraded steel components. How capable is the P1S stock, and what upgrades, if any, would be recommended?

From what I've found, the AMS 2 seems to be the ideal choice over the OG AMS due to the drying function and more user-friendly design. It's $120 more for the AMS 2 combo than the AMS combo, so for those of you who have these setups, is the AMS 2 worth it?

Other than the printer selection, what are your go-to filaments and brands? I've seen PPA-CF, PA6-CF, and PAHT-CF mentioned, but don't really understand the pros and cons of each.

I was a long-time lurker on the Fosscad sub, but I am hoping to contribute moving forward.