submitted 1 day ago by Brutticus@lemm.ee to c/diy@slrpnk.net

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Hello Lemmy,

Youve been so helpful over the last few months. Maybe someone can help me with this.

I have this butchers block countertop with an undermount sink. I had it installed 18 months ago. I sealed it, and then this part was being warped and forced apart. I put in wood block, I resealed it. But as you can see, its coming apart again.

I followed all the advice of the handy men I know, including the one that installed it. The only thing I can think of is, aside from reblocking and sealing it, maybe a line of silicon around where the faucet comes up, and around the lip where the sink is flush with hole its mounted in, both things they assured me wouldn't be necessary. Should I be concerned about a leak on the underside? Am I just hosed?

(More pics of the whole set up on request)

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[-] Didros@beehaw.org 2 points 1 day ago

Based on the grain this looks like a side on picture, would you be able to put a bowtie in to hold it together?

[-] Brutticus@lemm.ee 1 points 11 hours ago

I don't know. How would I do that?

[-] Didros@beehaw.org 2 points 10 hours ago

https://www.instructables.com/Inlay-a-Bow-Tie-by-Hand/

Makes a wooden joint that holds the pressures in the wood that are causing tge seperation.

[-] TranscendentalEmpire@lemm.ee 3 points 1 day ago

More picks would be nice, is this the lip of the sink we're looking at?

Butcher block is fine for countertops, but I haven't ever really seen them used with an under mounted sink. I'm not really sure how one would expect to keep the wood from swelling considering it's end grain is probably getting steamed every time you use hot water.

What are we using to seal this?

[-] Brutticus@lemm.ee 1 points 11 hours ago

Ive been using wipe on Polyurethane. Two coats when it was installed, two coats when we had to fix it before. Recently I tried Butchers Block conditioner but Im not sure it was doing anything.

This is an older picture, but it illustrates the relative topography correctly. You can also see the scar pretty visibly on the countertop as well, right in front of the leg of the dish rack.

[-] TranscendentalEmpire@lemm.ee 2 points 10 hours ago

The problem is probably coming from where the undermount of the sink meets with the wood. I'm guessing there's probably a good chance your finish may have been damaged during installation. It's pretty easy to damage a couple layers of PU.

From my experience with PU, you prob want more like 4-5 layers instead of two, and I would suggest sealing the seam where the sink meets the wood with some silicone.

As far as the damage goes, you're prob going to want to put in a dove tail and refinish it, or you can try impregnating it with epoxy if you have any experience with it.

Tbh this just isn't a good place for butchers block, too many end grains exposed from a variety of wood that swells to different degrees. Ya mix that with heat and humidity and you got yourself a bunch of different places problems can pop up.

[-] Good4Nuthin@lemmy.world 3 points 1 day ago

If bowing of the entire counter is forcing the center apart, -maybe- you could stop it (or possibly correct it somewhat) by screwing in strips of some non-warping material (wood maybe, metal might be better, like beefy aluminum angle) at intervals underneath the counter. Orient them perpendicular to the direction of the butcher block strips. Put screws in every few inches.

It was fear of this warpage happening that when I redid our kitchen with butcher block counters, I chose a drop-in/overmount apron front stainless sink. Has like a 3” wide lip all around on top of the counter, and is thin enough (roughly 1/16”) that once I put a bead of silicon at the edge, I can still easily rake crap off the counter right into the sink. Faucet, etc is all mounted on the sink, so less water exposure. About the worse thing so far has been some surface crud on the wood between the back lip and the wall.

[-] DScratch@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 day ago

Bowing and warping is a natural response to moisture changes. It may be unavoidable.

Getting the moisture content back to where it was may reduce the severity of it. Keeping it there means regular drying, oiling and waxing the board.

You can use things like bow ties to help hold the seam together. Blacktail Studio on YouTube has a good (imo) video on installing a bow tie.

For filling it, you can use a food-contact rated glue, like Titebond 3 and clamp the crack back together.

If the crack is too large to close, you can fill it with sanding dust mixed with a food safe wood glue.

Or! Go all in, remove some material to give you clean flat surfaces to glue in some new material. You can hide it or highlight it, depending on the wood you use.

[-] Brutticus@lemm.ee 1 points 10 hours ago

How regularly should I oil the and wax the block? its been treated with several layers of polyurethane.

I really appreciate the tip for Bowties. I watched the video and hes awesome, but I fear that it goes well beyond my meager abilities as a woodworker.

[-] TranscendentalEmpire@lemm.ee 1 points 9 hours ago

regularly should I oil the and wax the block? I have been applying conditioner regularly, but it didnt feel like it was doing anything. the board has been treated with several layers of polyurethane.

Never, it's not going to do anything as it's not going to permeate through the layers of poly.

You may be getting confused with the butcher's block used for food prep and as a cutting board which you don't usually leave unsealed, or sealed with wax.

[-] DScratch@sh.itjust.works 1 points 10 hours ago

Also, a sharp chisel and patience is all you really need for bow ties. Try some practice runs on some scrap and see how you fare.

[-] DScratch@sh.itjust.works 1 points 10 hours ago

With a poly coating on there it’s more difficult to say.

Personally I keep an eye on the colour of the wood. When it starts to look dry and pale, it’s time.

The wood will let you know, it will stop soaking the oil and wax and you then wipe off the excess and start buffing.

It may let oil seep out for a few days after, as it adjusts. Just wipe that away. Food grade mineral oil (which I use for all my boards) is non toxic, but it is a laxative, so do wipe up and excess before using the board 😁

this post was submitted on 28 Jan 2025

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