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I try synthetic salmon and enter the “uncanny valley” of taste
(arstechnica.com)
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I think that's why the authour is trying to convey. Why do you want to eat this? Is it for ethical reasons? Environmental? As a culinary experience? Simply because it's cool?
I do wish they went into more detail about "the cost" of developing fake salmon.
The cost is just money in this case. It doesn't use rare or unethically sourced materials (at least if you're not a vegan), it advances the biological sciences as a whole and it's something to do for bio grads that might generate a lot of value for society in the future.