Originally posted by u/Print-a-22 at 2024-11-14T17:55:09Z
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This thing is a ton of fun. Definitely make sure you file your extractor groove before gluing your liner into the barrel, as it's really difficult to do well once it's glued in. I'll be reprinting a barrel to follow my own advice. Speaking of best practices, if you use the threaded barrel, print at an angle. I printed vertical and my can was too heavy and broke the plastic threads off, hence the exposed liner at the tip.
If you'd like to build one, hardware kits are available at my username dot com, and ready to ship including all laser cut parts. Kits are BYOBarrel, so you either need an RS22, or any length chambered barrel liner.
u/kaewon · 2024-11-15 04:25:04 UTC · score 2
Possibly depending on how it's done. The issue he experienced was bad attachment to the liner. Rough of the liner surface and make sure there is enough epoxy should work for most devices. I haven't had issues with my kvp modular comp ez can. If you can maximize surface area of the liner attached to the muzzle device, it would require more force to remove. With threads, that means more threads which isn't really possible for most muzzle devices. Or use a muzzle device that attaches onto more liner length.
Another alternative that is used on other designs is a thicker barrel sleeve so the printed part alone has the strength to hold 22, which doesn't require much, rather than relying on the epoxy. Others have done this along with a metal adapter to have metal threads.
Anyone who has printed small threads know they are kinda terrible. It's best to screw whatever on and just leave it. It's one of the reasons I made QD for ez cans so you can just attach a brake and leave the threads alone.
u/Somebodysomeone_926 · 2024-11-16 07:18:38 UTC · score 1
Barrel extension for a 9mm should slip over it and is already threaded