Hell yeah! It's an alternative photography process. You mix up a chemical emulsion and paint it on some watercolor paper (or fabric or wood or anything porous). Then you can arrange a composition on the paper with stuff like plants (what we focus on for this class) but other stuff like have or loose knit fabrics, objects with neat shapes, whatever. You can also take photos or do digital design and print out negatives on transparencies.
Once you're ready to go, you expose them in the sun! There's a lot of different factors in how long you expose them for–time of day, time of year, cloud cover, the thickness of your design materials, the pH of your paper or fabric, and a bunch of other stuff I know I haven't learned about yet. In my class we watch everyone's prints and I explain the different phases you can see them go through. I talk about what changes I'm looking for and factors I'm considering. I'll tell each person when I think theirs is done and what has led me to that decision. It gets easier with practice, but I always tell people it's a great art form for "recovering perfectionists" because I'm always learning something new.
Once they're exposed, you just rinse in a plain water bath and you get that awesome blue. This was about 20 minutes after rinsing, but they continue to get deeper in color over the next day or so as the pigments oxidize.
Ferric ammonium citrate and potassium ferricyanide. Don't bathe in it but I've never had any irritation from splashes on my skin that I wash off, or from rinsing with no gloves (the final rinse is in plain water). Don't mix it with a lot of acid (not sure why you would) because then it makes cyanide gas, but in the process of making cyanotypes, very very safe!
I've never used enlargers for this process. They're exposed with UV light so you'd have to use a UV bulb with it and from my brief Google, there's varying success. When I do photos, I print the negatives full size on transparency film and expose in the sun.