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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by jwiggler@sh.itjust.works to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

Edit: Read this first. The solution was to not try to do everything online and go to a local music/record/vintage audio equipment shop and chat with the folks there. They were super nice, showed me the gear they recommended, and now I've got a nice sounding vintage setup that may not be audiophile worthy but is super awesome to me.

Hi there all, beginner audiophile here. Trying to build out my first turntable setup.

I decided on a Fluance RT82 and Douk X1 for a preamp. Now, when selecting speakers, I decided I'd just buy a second pair of the studio monitors I was using on my computer, Kali LP-6.

Now I'm a bit confused on the connections. The RT82 comes with an RCA cable and ground cable I'll connect to the Douk preamp, so that is covered. But the preamp has 4 speaker outputs that are binding posts. There is only a single RCA input on each monitor, so I'm not sure how to connect the preamp to the monitors.

I did see someone online say "why would you connect a preamp to LP-6? They already have amplifiers in them" But I also saw another person who had a TT setup with the LP-6es, which included a pre amp.

Any advice would be appreciated!! Or reading materials. The douk manual isn't much help.

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Hi there!

I'm looking to replace my Edifier R1800BT with some higher end alternative.

What would you recommend?

Thanks!

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submitted 4 months ago by mub@lemmy.ml to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

I use my PC for gaming, streaming, and music production. Currently I just use a Scarlet 2i2 Gen 3 with powered PreSonus Eris E4.5 speakers, which is fine but I have an idealised audio setup I'd like to build which I'm struggling to put together without compromising on some aspect. The audio world is such a rabbit hole of snake-oil and bullshit it is hard to find genuinely good products I can trust to be what they claim, and not just overpriced distractions. I'm no audio expert (which is probably obvious) but I think what I'm trying to achieve is interesting enough to see what people recommend, and help me decide if my goal is unrealistic.

Here are my requirements and what I'm trying to achieve.

  1. Volume controlled entirely from Windows. No external volume knobs unless they can be bypassed/overridden in software.

  2. Audio Interface for my Mic and guitar.

    So at least 2 XLR inputs and 1 TRS (Combo ports are also fine).

    Include 48v Phantom Power for my Dynamic mics (RØDE PodMic and RØDE M3)

    Might need a pre-amp to boost gain on the Dynamic mic's

  3. A Good USB DAC

  4. A Good AMP for passive speakers, with a port for my wired headphones.

  5. Passive Stereo speakers

  6. Sound quality should be natural and true to life as possible. I don't want any silly audio enhancements, like base boosts or clear voice, but a good EQ control would be OK.

  7. I'd like separate units for DAC/AMP/Mic Interface but I'd be happy with good combo devices.

Here is a diagram of what I'm hoping for. https://i.imgur.com/shzA8bn.png

I welcome your thoughts and pointers. Thx.

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submitted 6 months ago by Abnorc@lemm.ee to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

These are my first IEMs! They are very good for the price as I expected from the reviews, but I didn't expect them to sound almost as good as my over-ear headphones. (soundstage aside)

Maybe I'm just imagining this, but I feel like I can hear more small details with these IEMs than my over ear headphones in higher price brackets. (Sennheiser HD-599 and Beyerdynamic MMX-300). In your experience, do IEMs beat the value of over-ear headphones in lower price brackets?

Either way, I'm impressed by this product. If you want to try some IEMs without spending a lot of money, I can definitely say that you should look into these! After owning them for longer, I'll see if my opinion changes.

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submitted 1 year ago by venturi@lemmy.ml to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

I would appreciate any help, thanks.

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Will this be the end of Qobuz?

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Just discovered this app. I love that it allows me to default to LDAC 16/44/quality settings without having to manually fiddle with developer options every time I connect headphones, earbuds, and speakers. I can also toggle between LDAC 16/44/quality and LDAC/16/44/adaptive settings with one click through saved profiles. Paid $4.13 for the premium app. Well worth it for audiophiles who use LDAC.

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Sharp CP-HP500 (lemmy.ml)

About a year ago I aquired a pair of these speakers and a diy sub for free. According to a few searches, they are supposed to be paired with a cd receiver. Does the cd receiver matter if I already have a home theater receiver? Are these any good for music and home theater?

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submitted 2 years ago by AceLucario@lemmy.ml to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

I have a hard limit of $100 I can spend on quality headphones. I'm aware it'll never be as good at the wallet killers but surely it'd be better than my Bluetooth earbuds.

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submitted 2 years ago by glibg10b@lemmy.ml to c/audiophile@lemmy.ml

TL;DR How can I equalize my car speakers using an equalizer app like ViPER4Android on my phone?


I just equalized my headphones on my phone using ViPER4Android's convolver feature and a headphone-specific .wav file I got from AutoEq, and it sounds great. Unfortunately, AutoEQ only seems to support a limited range of sound devices, which does not include car sound systems.

I'm not an audiophile, but even I can tell that my car's system's frequency response is terrible, specifically in the low end, where there are specific frequencies that resonate through the car (especially noticeable when the bass frequency changes in a song).

As far as I know, AutoEq's files are made by playing something over the speakers, recording it with a high quality microphone and correcting it to match some pre-determined frequency response curve called an equalizer target. I was wondering if there's a way to replicate this process using my phone's microphone (I'm not after near-perfect sound quality here, just something that sounds reasonable), and if that would be the best way of going about this.

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