Hey deckers!

I grabbed Elden ring in the summer sale, but it keeps freezing and crashing after some time. I found a few posts including Github - all of them are about 2 month old that seem to have similar behavior.

I was wondering if anyone here has the same issue and maybe even a workaround & fix. I've tried a few things, but nothing worked so far.

Elden Ring (and only Elden Ring) freezes after about 5-30 minutes of playtime. Had a longer session once - but only once.

Tested steps:

• Same behavior in Desktop-mode or Game-mode.
• Same behavior when Limiting Wattage
• Same behavior turning of the new fan curve
• Same behavior when Easy Anti Cheat is disabled (launching elden ring.exe and creating steamID.txt)
• Same behavior with multiple Proton versions (including GE)
• Same behavior after deleting protonfiles
• Same behavior after reinstalling the game
• Same behavior after verifying files
• Temperature of the device is normal

OS 3.4.8, No Beta Hardware is about 6 month old, no other issues. Almost any game runs without issues.

A useful and very visual guide I found pasted on steamdeck.community, which is now gone. Last archive.org capture: http://web.archive.org/web/20230205050817/https://steamdeck.community/threads/setting-up-wireguard-client-on-steam-deck.265/

See also: https://www.theverge.com/2023/6/29/23778674/steam-deck-valve-deal-sale “The Steam Deck’s second sale ever: now, it’s up to $130 off”

Valve is also discounting their Steam Deck Docking Station, and almost all of the top 100 played games on Steam Deck.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/805784

Prices in title are USD.

So far the information available on the Steam Deck screws has been quite sparse, noted for their fragile nature. So during my recent opening of the Steam Deck, I decided to collect some technical information on screws that are otherwise not written down anywhere.

Types of Screws and their Propensity of Stripping

Most of the screws used in the Steam Deck have been noted as M1.6 (metric with a diameter of 1.6 mm), though below I will precise that these may not apply everywhere. There are two types of screws involved, machine screws (metal-to-metal contact) and plastic self-tapping (metal-to-plastic).

M1.6 machine screws will have a rigidly standardized pitch of 0.35 mm (ISO 7045:2011), and the M1.6 self-tapping screws seem to be 0.64 mm, which some vendor references a JIS standard (which I have no visibility into, but see e.g. https://www.newstarfastenings.com/uploads/Brochure.pdf on page 29), whereas the M1.5 self-tapping pitch of 0.5 mm is defined in ISO 1478:1999.

The back screws are described in:

https://gitlab.steamos.cloud/SteamDeck/hardware/-/blob/master/steamdeck_2d_20220202.pdf

Measuring their pitch and lengths shows they are consistent with being:

• M1.6-0.64×8.7mm (9.5 mm total length), pan headed for the longer self-tapper and
• M1.6-0.35×5mm (5.8 mm total length), (thickish) wafer headed for the shorter machine screw.

I am not going into great detail about these, as OEM replacement screws are readily available.

Valve customer support revealed the specification of the two small machine screws at the top and bottom left of the EMI shield to someone inquiring about it (I added the head shape):

• M1.6-0.35x3mm, pan headed

(total length 3.7 mm, https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/730764/). I do not recall an official statement on the large EMI shield screw underneath the foil, but in the eXtremeRate front plate kit, there is one screw shared between this and the SSD. Hence this is likely the standard machine screw as with the SSD:

• M2-0.4x2.5mm, wafer headed, head diameter 4.5 mm

Three self-tapping screws of a more mysterious origin attach each analog stick. There are 28 screws of this type in a Steam Deck. Yet no source seems to have ever named the specification of this screw. And my inquiries with Valve customer support got the response that they do not know (and have no vendor they want to reveal). My measurements suggest

• In between M1.55-0.5x4.5mm and M1.55-0.55x4.5mm (total length 5.2 mm), wafer headed, head height 0.7 mm, head diameter 3.5 mm

These are very custom screws and are virtually impossible to obtain.

The best replacement I found is the ones that come with eXtremeRate front plate kit, which is 0.17-0.64x4.5mm, and a head with the same dimension as the OEM screw. As they have a larger M1.7 size, these screws will hopefully re-tap their threads deeper into the plastic. Empirically I found them to hold well. And these screws from eXtremeRate have far deeper Phillips slots than the OEM screws, which makes them significantly more resistant to stripping.

Note that while scary (and do not do it unless necessary), in the worst case, there are two methods to fix the tapped or stripped holes: Using epoxy like J-B Weld, see e.g. over at r/consolerepair (https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/rg3oec/repair_screw_plastic/), or you could also replace the front cover and therefore tapping completely fresh using your favorite screw thread.

I included figures showing the comparison between the screws and how they compare once inserted.

Appropriate Torque

Using the process of torque auditing by loosening, I inferred the following torques:

• Back M1.6x9mm: 10 cN·m (14 ozf·in)
• Back M1.6x5mm: 8 cN·m (11 ozf·in) — the initial loosening torques were a bit ambiguous, and this was rechecked by re-tightening and reproducing the loosening torques
• Shield small: 10 cN·m (14 ozf·in)
• Shield/foil and SSD: 16 cN·m (23 ozf·in)
• Stick: 6 cN·m (8 ozf·in) if reusing the OEM screws, or 10–14 cN·m (14–20 ozf·in) when re-tapping with M1.7

The OEM stick screws are quite fragile and tend to strip with a slightly misaligned screw driver above 10 cN·m. Hence the recommendation to stick to 6 cN·m if the screw is reused. Also, these screws appear to have marks with red Loctite, which can artificially increase the loosening torque, to around 10 cN·m. This further explains why many people ended up stripping these screws.

I found that when re-tapping, 5 out of the 6 stick screws could be re-tapped with 10 cN·m, and the last one required 14 cN·m. Both values appear to be somewhat reasonable, and not indicative the tapped grooves being stripped.

Note on the Appropriate Phillips Bit

Annoyingly, iFixit refuses to provide any concrete advice on bit sizes. Instead, it says “Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape,” which is true. However, it is quite possible to check bits for the correct size.

The Phillips/cross recess H is defined in ISO 4757:1983 Section 2.1. Among the parameters in Table 1, the recess width f is easiest to check for small bits. The correct bit should be ISO No. 0, sometimes denoted “PH0.” In the ISO standard, No. 0 has f = 0.31–0.36 mm, and e.g. when I checked, the Wiha Slotted Torque Control Blade PH0 measures 0.35 mm.

A free copy of ISO 4757:1983 is e.g. in https://law.resource.org/pub/in/bis/S01/is.7478.2011.pdf

Note on Torque Auditing and Uncertainties

When using the loosening method, the conventionally used estimate for the ratio of measured torque/tightening torque = 0.6–0.9, with a mean = 0.8. For simplicity, 0.8 is used, with a 20% uncertainty. See e.g. explained by Tohnichi:

https://www.tohnichi.com/pdf/03-inspecting-tightening-torque.pdf

Additionally, the Tohnichi dial torque meter has a manufacturer-specified uncertainty of 3%. This was cross-calibrated against the Wiha TorqueVario-S 4–46 cN·m driver, which has an manufacturer-specified uncertainty of 10%. Cross-calibrating both devices yielded an additional possible uncertainty source of ± (0.8 cN·m) / τ (τ being the torque), which can be from the indicator needle’s inertia and finite scale reading resolution.

The plots in the figure show the estimated tightening torque with uncertainties as error bars, their joint distribution assuming Gaussians as the curve, and the 68% Student’s t confidence interval of the tightening torque as a shaded area.

Raw Torque Measurements

Back top
- 9.5mm
4.2 5.8mm
6.3 5.8mm
8.5 9.5mm

Back bottom
7.7 9.5mm
3.5 5.8mm
- 5.8mm
7.8 9.5mm

Shield
8.2 3.7mm
14.3 3.4mm
9.7 3.7mm

SSD
12.9 3.4mm

Stick R
5.7
7.4
- (10.8 but Loctite)

Stick L
6.3
7.2
7.0

Trigger bracket R
8.6
-
8.3

Just wanna say that I’m loving the steam deck so far overall, but wow I just started playing rogue legacy and I realized the dpad is basically unusable for me.

I personally love modern and retro platformers and not having a decent d-pad is very disappointing. For now I’m just using an xbox controller instead, but I would love to see this improved with the next iteration of the deck.

Just wanted to get peoples thoughts on this topic!

A reminder of Valve’s FAQ, given recent article on Websites trying to contradict (e.g. https://www.slashgear.com/1314340/steam-deck-plugged-in-overnight/):

If your device has been left on the charger for long periods of time, it may report less than 100% charge. This is normal. We allow the battery to slowly discharge after long periods of time under charge to optimize long-term battery health.

JSAUX: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBY8fBJrlBM

eXtremeRate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tBE10fSYBc

Loud music throughout both videos, beware of the volume.

Personally, I would really like to see Valve add a video capture feature. Like how on Xbox and PlayStation, you can press a button to record the last 30 seconds of gameplay. Something like this is almost impossible to do conviently on Steam Deck and just Linux systems in general. Valve adding it in natively to the Steam UI would be absolutely amazing.

Anyway, what features or improvements would you like to see on Steam Deck?

Ive just started Final Fantasy XV and have been quite happy with it so far.

Over the past few months, I played through all of Fallout 4, Fallout New Vegas and GTA V. I'm trying to clear my backlog before I buy any more games lol

So anyway, what are you been playing on your Deck?